13 replies to this topic

[CZ455]

What brand/type bore guide are you using for your CZ 452 or 455?  I'm also interested to know how the extractor affects the bore guide.  Many thanks for your input.

[Carl]

Not sure what brand it is, but you can not install it so the top is open. It's open on the bottom which does no good as far as putting a wet patch on the jag just ahead of the chamber. It should be made so after you push it in to the back of the barrel, you could rotate it around the ejector.

[Pdwight]

Carl, on 18 February 2011 - 07:41 PM, said:

Not sure what brand it is, but you can not install it so the top is open. It's open on the bottom which does no good as far as putting a wet patch on the jag just ahead of the chamber. It should be made so after you push it in to the back of the barrel, you could rotate it around the ejector.

As I remember a make shift one can be had by knocking out the primer on a 20 ga shot shell.

[CZ455]

Carl could it be Sinclair International bore guide RG452CZ?  Here is a link: http://www.sinclairi...r_22_Long_Rifle

[Carl]

CZ455, on 18 February 2011 - 10:44 PM, said:

Carl could it be Sinclair International bore guide RG452CZ?  Here is a link: http://www.sinclairi...r_22_Long_Rifle

Looks like the one. I got it along with my 453 when I bought it from a friend in our gun club. I know as an avid centerfire BR shooter, he bought a lot of his stuff from Sinclair.

[BinhThuyUSN]

CZ455, on 18 February 2011 - 04:59 PM, said:

What brand/type bore guide are you using for your CZ 452 or 455?  I'm also interested to know how the extractor affects the bore guide.  Many thanks for your input.

Check out Possum Hollow bore guides. I have one that I used on my new 452 Full Stock and it worked great. If you decide on the Possum Hollow guide, get the solvent attachment. The solvent attachment allows you to add your bore cleaner or oil to the patch before running the rod with patch thru the bore.

Possum hollow also has a stock cover to protect the wood while cleaning.

My 2 cents

[teetertotter]

Isn't it much easier to use weedeater line?  No bore guide required and using a rod of some sort.

[tapple]

I use a 7/16 Craftsman long socket.------Works great. Pull the triger and insert drive side first.

[Walt]

tapple, on 09 June 2012 - 10:00 AM, said:

I use a 7/16 Craftsman long socket.------Works great. Pull the triger and insert drive side first.

Welcome to the forum Tapple, lots of good folks and interesting topics. Thanks for the input, interesting solution.

[dbp1stltartillery]

Jason Lowey, a board member loweyproducts. in australia..has been making bore guides and bolt storage units for a while..As you know in Australia the bolt must be kept separate from the gun even in storage..His bolt storage units allow the bolt to be decocked to release pressure on the striker spring..Might check him out..Don't know pricing or shipping though..Previous thread mentioned a solvent attatchment. on the bore guides..I don't know what Lowey offers as far as the solvent situation. He also makes single shot adaptors......Dave.  .Deo Vindice

Edited by dbp1stltartillery, 10 June 2012 - 02:49 PM.

[Columbia]

Sorry for my ignorance...why do you need a bore guide.  I am new to the bolt rifle scene (452 UL is just a few weeks old) and would appriciate someone educating me a bit.  I have just been running a bore snake 4 or 5 times and calling it good.  Am I damaging my rifle?
Thanks for your time.

[Walt]

Columbia, on 13 June 2012 - 12:39 PM, said:

Sorry for my ignorance...why do you need a bore guide.  I am new to the bolt rifle scene (452 UL is just a few weeks old) and would appriciate someone educating me a bit.  I have just been running a bore snake 4 or 5 times and calling it good.  Am I damaging my rifle?
Thanks for your time.

A bore guide is to keep your cleaning rod from banging into the chamber face and damaging the face and bore. A lot of guys don't like to use a bore snake because of the brass bristols. I use a bore snake myself and figure brass being softer then steel it shouldn't hurt the bore any, but I'm sure there are other opinions out there that will be coming.

Walt

[Fotheringill]

Columbia:

I also have a two week old 452 Ultra Lux.

You are not damaging your rifle YET.

A bore guide is necessary if you are going to use a rod to clean the bore. It keeps the rod straight without banging against the inside of the bore when pushing it through and when guiding it into the bore itself. I believe the rod does a much better job of cleaning the bore than the bore snake unless you wash the bore snake after every few uses. Powder residue and copper fouling remains on the fabric of the bore snake and unless washed very frequently, all you are doing is running the dirty bore snake through the bore time after time without getting rid of the residue. If you use the Otis puller, you still have the issue of the brass lead and for the life of me, maybe it is the way I thread it, it seems only a very small portion of the patch near the actual part that threads though the eyelet is the "contact" point with the bore and the only part that gets dirty. I cannot comment on the patch worm since I have never used it. I also have a lack of faith in the Otis and certainly the bore snake if you are using Hoppe's copper solvent. You have to work quickly to get rid of the solvent before you do serious damage to the bore. Their regular, weaker solvent takes longer to mess up the bore, but it ideally should be removed ASAP and completely. When all removed, use a gun oil, like Hoppe's or another dozen out there to lightly coat the inside of the bore when you are finished to prevent rust. The astoundingly terrble CZ manual says to get the oil out of the bore before shooting. A few clean patches and the rod does that for me, as well. The bore snake will only redeposit the copper, powder and gunky oil if you follow CZ's manual. I trust the rod system more than Otis to completely remove the solvents. BTW- don't forget to clean the crown of the barrel, as well, with a patch.

I would also suggest you NOT purchase the screw in multiple piece rods that come in the Safari kits or similar. If you want to use a jag, you sure can't do it with either the bore snake or the Otis and I assume the patchworm. The three and four piece screw in rods  tend to bend . When they bend they will scratch the bore, not to mention getting stuck in there if it is REALLY bent. Get a one piece rod and since you have a 28 1/2 inch barrel and another seven or eight inches or so to get through the receiver you will need one that is at least 38" long. Get yourself a Maglite or similar or one of those lights with a flexible tube to examine the bore before you start to see what is inside the barrel, then see after a bore snake and then after you do a thorough cleaning rod job on your weapon.  PLEASE MAKE SURE YOUR MAGAZINE HAS BEEN REMOVED AND THE RIFLE IS UNLOADED BEFORE YOU START. ALSO, CHECK YOUR BORE VISUALLY AFTER YOU REMOVE THE BOLT TO MAKE SURE YOU CAN SEE THROU IT. IF YOU HAD A SQUIB, IT IS POSSIBLE THE BULLET IS STILL IN THAT LOOOOOOONG BARREL. BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY. By the way, when using the light, you are going to need someone else to direct it properly unless you have gorilla arms with that barrel length (or wrap it in place with some twine or something to be able to look through.

I hope this helps a bit.

[Carl]

I don't own a Boresnake or any similar cleaning device and the only place I can see a use for them is in a rifle that a rod can't be used, like most semi-autos, slide actions, lever guns, etc. A bolt gun should IMO be cleaned from the chamber end with a good one piece SS rod and whenever possible, a bore guide. I don't have an "on purpose" guide for all my bolt guns, but do use some makeshift things or even my finger tips to center the rod. I use a .17 cal rod with a thread adaptor to .22 for a nylon brush or for a jag, I use a .20 cal. jag which fits on a .17 rod. Only time I use a bronze brush is in a few rifles where the bore is really dirty or bad... never on any target or competition rifles. I have a model 12 Remington that had what appeared to be a rough bore... used a bronze brush for what seemed like hours over several days and it came out clean, but still dark... I suspect at it's age, it had corrosive cartridges used in it.
Recently I have been surprised at all the crap I get out of shotgun barrels... don't remember that from when I hunted birds years ago. I'm thinking maybe some is plastic from the shot cup???